Durmitor (and visiting Ostrog Monastery on our way!)
We slept really fine, except for the moment a dog from the area barked like crazy. When we got up we discovered the reason: another car had arrived there with a family. We had read about the dog in park4night and got some sausage for him the day before, and he ate it happily and befriended us. We checked the lake but didn't look great to swim in, so we said goodbye to the neighbour girls and had breakfast. The dog stayed with us all the time, except when a 4x4 that arrived half breakfast was calling him from time to time to go gather some sheep that were around.
We drove to and visited the Ostrog monastery, which was free, and in our way out we found the girls from last night! They just arrived despite starting 1 hour before us. Their bus was getting too warm uphill and had to leave it half way and walk the rest... We then drove to the lake next to Niksic and went to the Krupac beach. We swam and had lunch there at "Plaza" while our things dried.
We drove to Durmitor through a beautiful landscape that would have been perfect as the Game of Thrones' wall. After stoping at the Nevidio Canyon, we continued to Zabljak, to our camping, Mlinski potok, where we got greeted with a couple shots. We walked to the Black Lake to enjoy sunset, and then went back to the city to buy things in the supermarket and try yet another disappointing burek.Then we went back to the camp and cooked dinner in the common area and had some drinks with our dutch neighbour.
Total spent: 77.50
Camping: 10 (4 per person and 3 the car)
Brrr! Ok, in Durmitor at night it is cold even in summer! But I slept fine, woke up soon and took a shower before preparing breakfast. We tried planning a hike, but gave up pretty soon in our map apps, so we ended up doing the walk around the Black Lake. This time, a ranger intercepted us in the side-entrance from the camping place and we had to (happily) pay the 3€ entrance per person. We finished with a couple beers in the restaurant and went up to the camping place to ask about horse riding. We had to wait a bit for the one knowing about it to come back, so Alex showered and we made lunch. In the end, the information was not so helpful, so we ended up going to the turist information point. Just as we were parking, a "helpful guy" intercepted us and offered us a discount in ziplining (the extreme one, usually 25€ each, for 25€ both). We are usually scheptichal about people comming directly to you to offer stuff, but ended up being legit!
We checked first the horse riding place, but it was empty, so went to the Tara canyon and did the zipline. It was awesome, a nice adrenaline kick and fantastic views. Then we walked around the bridge and took some pictures.
We went once again to the horses place, but they told us it was too late and arranged it for next morning. This way we had time to search for a nice wild camping place next to a lake in the border of the national park. It was unbelievably beautiful and big. There was a camper, a tent, and then another car came, and we couldn't really see or hear each other. We made some carbonara pasta and enjoyed life before going to sleep.
In the middle of the night I woke up because I really needed to pee... and I had to go, grumpy because it was cold... but I saw a shooting star! Fancy :)
NP tickets: 6€
We woke up and made breakfast with a magical view of the mist over the lake after sunrise. Then, we drove to Nanuk, the horse place, following Google Maps instructions. Big mistake! Made us turn into a small path that suddenly disappeared. There was no street at all, and we had to turn back and take the perfect road that was "2 minutes slower". Thank you.
We had booked a 1h tour with a guide, thinking it would be like in Iceland, with the guide on a horse... but no. It was a fat kid walking pulling from one of the horses. Really not what we were hoping for.
Since, let's be honest, it was so boring, we searched for hikes, and this time we decided to take a "medium-difficoult" one, thinking the difficoult ones we do in Germany are pretty easy. We parked in Zabljak and walked from there. The hike started from the Ivan Do camp, and this time we didn't encounter any ranger. We hiked to Crvena Greda, which, apparently, means red shelf because from the city it looks redish at sunrise. We started at 12, and half an hour later we made a stop to eat the 3 cookies we had with us. We got lost following the Komoot instructions (that apparently were as good as the Google Maps ones for the car) to the detour to Zminje jezero and had to undo our way to see it, and later we walked to another dead end. Each time we overtook a super cute couple with a baby. The last time we followed the app's instructions, we ended up going up the mountain through a path that didn't exist anymore (if it ever did), and we had to climb goat style. Well, at least it gave us a couple adrenaline kicks! We eventually found the real path again, but Alex slipped unluckily and twisted his ankle. It hurt, but he managed to bravelly keep going (and we were not even at the top yet, we were about 40% of the hike, not counting the way to the car!)
We were actually lucky, since from the summit we could see, together with the amazing views, how it was pitch dark and raining cats and dogs not far away from us. We focused on going down as fast as we could, because with Alex's slight injure, it would have been miserable and dangerous to do the semi-climbing-down hike parts in the rain. We skept the last small detour and took what it looked like the shortest way to our car, stopping in Voli for water, beer and cookies.
It was already 7, and our plan of driving towards Herceg Novi changed to having a nice dinner and sleeping in the place from the previous day again. Alex searched for a restaurant and we ended up in Izvor, which luckily was on our way to the lake. There, we met the cute couple with the baby again, and laughed about it. Alex took an ibu and after 2 beers, 2 broths, a mixed grilled meat plate and some bread with garlic, felt better. It was a delicious, satisfying and very cheap dinner! I searched for an apartment for next day, and drove to our lake, where we almost inmediately went to sleep.