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Off season is the best season


We got up reaaaally soon, still with our stomachs bad, to get the direct bus to Trinco, where it was supposed to be monsoon season. But that day, there was not a direct bus. The driver and a nice guy told us that today we have to change bus. Once in the first stop, the nice guy explained Alex it was because there was a political rally and the politicians needed the buses. So we waited for the second bus and it was packed. I've never ever seen anything like that in my life. Sometimes I was not even touching the ground! But we made it somehow and arrived to our place in Uppuveli, and the owner made us coffee and a free sandwich.

Then we walked along the beach with really sunny and nice weather, and in the only place opened, about 2km away, we saw some people coming down a boat. They told me they've been snorkeling, which we thought was not worth it during low season. On our way back, some fishermen asked Alex to help them turn the boat and put it in the water. We worked a bit, got samosas and cookies, worked a bit more and had the dinner our host choosed for us: calamari, fries and beer.

Sleep: Blue Wings Beach Hotel

Mr crabs enjoying the beach for himselt
Wonderful weather when we were expecting just rain


After a nice night sleep and some string hoppers for breakfast, we took a motorbike to drive around. After 1 minute, the police stopped us and asked for the driving license. Alex just had the german, and the guy asked for the international. We played dumb, and the he asked about a license in Sri Lanka. We looked at him totally puzzled and he gave up and let us go. Pheeeew.

First stop: gas station and then Trinco. We drove through the fort and saw deer in our way! They are roaming free, all around. At the top there was a hindu temple, Koneswaram Kovil, with a giant Shiva which is impressive. We drove down and made a short stop at Gokanna beach, which was full of fisherman, so I didn't want to swim there, although Alex dipped a bit and helped them put a boat back in the water.

After that we drove to Nilaveli beach. We made a first stop somewhere in the middle of nothing, where everywhere was closed with just a few cows and some umbrellas. We relaxed a bit there and went further in front of Pidgeon Island to check it: the beach there was wider, with an awesome resort, where we drank some expensive drinks and felt rich for a bit. We then drove a back to have lunch at CafĂ© on the 18th, but found it a bit expensive. There we met a Chinese girl who wanted to go to Pidgeon Island so we went, checked places, booked a trip, and informed her which one. Then we went back to the hotel and work. For dinner we went to a lovely family run business, Eastern Lanka Seafood Restaurant, where we ate curry and kottu and ordered seafood for the next day.

Sleep: Blue Wings Beach Hotel

The Shiva in Trinco's temple
Deer at the beach
Nilaveli beach and Pidgeon island


We woke up and the weather was terrible. Alex wrote the guy of the tour, and after taking forever to reply he said he didn't know. So we had breakfast, prepared ourselves, and walked there. In our way we saw a dead turtle, lots of dead fish and one of those fish with spikes stranded but still alive, and Alex threw him back to the sea. We arrived, talked with the guide, and decided to postpone the trip and went to work.

To go for lunch we stopped a tuktuk, who took us there and refused to let us pay him because it was on his way! In the restaurant we waited more than 1 hour for our prawns and crab, but the guy went shopping fruit for every fruit juice we wanted. The food was amazing, worth the wait, and cheap.

We went back to work and tried to arrange cheap night in a 5 star hotel in the area. Our host made grilled prawns with rice and salad for dinner, and  even bought us 2 beers in case we wanted! :)

Sleep: Blue Wings Beach Hotel

The things that can be found at the beach after a storm...


The weather didn't look great, so we had breakfast and packed our stuff, since the hotel was sold out and had to move for the night. Suddenly, the tour guy said we're going. We took a tuktuk and he sent us to another place: with so little people they team up, so we went with the boat of another hotel. In the end we went with 2 German girls and a Dutch guy.

The way there (with a short stop in Nilaveli to buy the island tickets) was crazy bumpy! We got the snorkel and fins and walked through the painful beach (full of coral) to the snorkel area. It was smaller than I imagined and not so clear because of the waves, but we still saw a lot of fish, jellyfish, eels and a couple sharks. The other ones saw turtles too, but we missed them (at least they were small). A couple hours later we came back, chilled at the beach and had lunch in an ok place.

Back to the hotel to pick our stuff up, we found the owner with the motorbike and gave Alex a ride to choose the place for the night! And then invited us to coffee. We then went to the chosen one, where I the host was a bit grumpy, and had dinner in our fave place, and since they don't have change, we leave owing them money!

Sleep: Inn Seabreeze (we wanted to extend the stay in Blue Wings Beach Hotel but it was sold out, this is the other hotel from the owner)

The bumpy road ride
Pidgeon island is sadly a coral tombstone
Little shark


When I went out of the room I saw a couple cups of coffee ready and I asked our host if it was for us, and he happily said yes. Then he brought some milk rice with nuts and told me is from the Thai Pongal (the hindu festival they were celebrating). We checked out and walked back to our hotel to drop the bags, where the owner told us, he changed our room with no warm water because the other guests really wanted it, or so we understood. We took a tuktuk to the temple where we spent 1 hour observating what they did (they gave food to the temple, prepared it and offered/shared it). Some teens got super excited about us and took pictures with me. Then walking down we saw the deers again and a tuktuk driver told us to feed them rottis.

We then walked to a restaurant, but it was closed and went to another one that has beer garden (where I was the only woman most of the time, until another tourist couple came). We drank beer, ate and got a tuktuk back and we slept/worked a bit.

For dinner we met a retired couple from the next room, which travel minimum 5 months per year since they retired. They got a car, looked for accommodations in and reserved just one night and extended it if they liked it. So, like us, but I was not expecting that from someone not that young!

Sleep: Blue Wings Beach Hotel

Some teens were excited to meet us
Apparently, deer like rotti


We slept long and tight, and had breakfast in the hotel. Our host offered us his motorbike for a couple hours, so we went to the restaurant to pay what we owe them, have a drink and asked if they knew where to do laundry. They said they could do it for us, so we left our things with them (yay!).

Then we checked the 5 star hotel we booked for the next night, from outside, and got lost a couple times trying to go to the beach bar. Frustrated, we went back to the hotel, returned the motorbike and started working soon. Alex walked direction to a bakery to get something, but our host saw him and told him to go home, and bought something for us. And he even picked him up on the way and brought him home.

Then we kept working, and the retired couple from next room told us about his travels, and gave us some nice advice (like as door to Asia, Kuala Lumpur airport is way better than Bangkok, and that we should really go to Malaysia, specially to Langkawi). They had really funny stories too: in one trip around South America, they met someone who didn't have an ID and to cross a border the guy just lent him his "Diving license" and presented it as the driving one! For dinner we had some nice grilled fish.

Sleep: Blue Wings Beach Hotel


After breakfast we packed and told our host we were going to a 5 star hotel for 1 night and asked him where could we buy beers. He told us not to worry, that he would get some cans for us.

We took a walk along the beach to make some time and once back, he called a tuktuk for us. We arrived at the Amaranthe and got seated at the reception with a juice, next to an English couple that arrived at the same time than us. When we were done, we left the bags at the reception and a guy led us to our room to explain how everything worked: tactile lights, jacuzzy... Crazy.

We went to the pool, and sadly it was not sunny nor that warm, so we jumped shortly inside to take a couple selfies. Which wass difficult because of the two gigantic women in the pool. Then we went to our room and into the jacuzzy, and when we were hungry we went out to have some lunch.

Back to the room, Alex worked and I went out to try to find out what the local women were celebrating, and hear them sing, and some man in the other side of the lake reciting/singing "Hare krishna". For sunset we went out again, and this time we saw the women playing and painting each other faces golden. One of them explained to us they were celebrating that one of them was getting married in two days. After working a bit, we went to the hotel restaurant to have buffet dinner, which was totally not worth it and found the bar closed, so we went to the room and into the jacuzzy, which didn't have warm water, and the guy they sent from reception didn't help, so we went to sleep.

Sleep: Amaranthé Bay Resort & Spa

Published: 25 February 2018, by susana

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I travelled to Sri Lanka with Alex, and spent December 2017 and January 2018 there. We travelled with our laptops and worked in the afternoon and/or evening, so we had time to see a lot of places, but took it slow.

Entry 16 out of the 20 from this trip

December 2017